Ireland: Exploring Remote Tory Island
by Guest Blogger, Brigid P. Gallagher
Tory is the most remote of Ireland’s inhabited islands, lying twelve kms off the coast of Donegal. It is approximately five kms long and one km wide, and is part of the tourist initiative The Wild Atlantic Way, which stretches for 1600miles along the west of Ireland.
Tory offers visitors stunning walks, diving, fishing, bird watching, historical sites, Irish culture and a very warm welcome.
The sea around the island is home to minke and humpback whales, orca, fin whales, basking sharks, porpoise, seals and dolphins. The Irish Whale and Dolphin Group provides more information at www.iwdg.ie
The cliffs of Tory are home to colonies of puffins, gannets, razorbills, guillemots and kittiwakes.
Cruising to Tory Island
A ferry (www.toryferry.com) leaves for the island from Magheraroarty pier. It then passes the islands of Inishbofin, Inishdooey and Inishbeg, before it nears Tory where the sea can become quite "choppy."
TOP TIP: Sea sickness patches or tablets may be necessary.
The King of Tory
A number of Irish islands had a tradition of appointing island kings; Tory is the only island to have continued this tradition. Patsy Dan Rodgers was King of Tory from 1993 until his passing in October 2018. He took a very active role in promoting the island, greeting visitors at the pier.
It is well worth spending a few days on Tory, with a number of bed and breakfasts, apartments, a hostel or the island’s hotel, all offering accommodation.
Leabhar Gabhala Eireann
Leabhar Gabhala Eireann- The Book of the Taking of Ireland, suggests that Tory was first occupied by settlers from Turkey called Nemedians. A group of pirates from Carthage called The Fomorians banished the Nemedians.
Conan, who was a Fomorian king, built a tower from whence Tory is believed to have gotten its name Tor Ri – tower of the king.
Conan was ousted by the Nemedians, but the island was later regained by the Fomorians, led by Balor of the Evil Eye - Balor na Suile Nimhe.
The Fomorians waged battles along the mainland, defeating their opponents at the Battle of Moy Tura - Magh Tuireadh in Co. Sligo.
Irish history was largely passed down by word of mouth and these stories are now viewed as myths rather than facts, but perhaps they are based on real events.
Balors Fort
The highest point on the north east of the island is known as Balor’s Fort - Dun Bhaloir.
The walk to the fort takes visitors through East Town An Baile Thoir, passing the harbour at Port an Duin, then across an isthmus onto Dun Bhaloir. The path is somewhat narrow and steep, as the fort is surrounded by cliffs on three sides – a perfect position.
Balor’s Prison - Priosun Bhaloir is a rocky cleft, where Balor is reputed to have thrown his prisoners!
On the east of Dun Bhaloir is a long rocky peninsula called The Big Key An Eochair Mor, which ends in The Big Rock Tor Mor.
If you continue to climb, you can enjoy stunning views along the length of Tory, with a glimpse of the island's lighthouse in the far distance.
Balor and Lugh
A Druid prophecy foretold that Balor would be killed by his grandson. Eithne, Balor’s only child was thus imprisoned in a stone tower on Tor Mor. Twelve women kept Eithne company, and were warned that they should never speak of a man and Eithne should never see a man.
Balor’s demise unfolds with the stealing of a cow belonging to a swordsman called Gaibhidin from the mainland tribe, the Tuatha De Danaan.
Cian, a Tuatha De Danaan chieftain was sent to find and return the cow to the mainland.
Miraculously, with the aid of a Druid woman called Birog, Cian entered the tower and fell in love with Eithne, who delivered triplets some time after Cian’s visit!
Balor fell into a rage, beheaded Cian and threw the poor triplets into the sea. However, one of the triplets was rescued by Birog and christened Lugh.
Lugh eventually made his home in a fort at Dunlewey - Dun Luiche at the bottom of Errigal Mountain.
Some years later, Balor paid a visit to Gaibhidin’s forge, and bragged of killing Cian and the triplets. Unaware that Lugh had survived, Balor succumbed to the prophecy, when his grandson plunged a fiery rod from the furnace into his head and out through his eye!
Another version of the story has Lugh leading the Tuatha De Danaan at the second battle of Moy Tura, and killing Balor with a slingshot that sends Balor’s eye shooting out of the back of his head!
In any event, The Poisoned Glen - Gleann Nimhe near Dunlewey is named after the poison that flowed from Balor’s Evil Eye.
Flights to Donegal
There are regular flights to Donegal from Dublin and Glasgow, flying into Donegal Airport www.donegalairport.ie
The airport has won multiple awards for the most scenic airport landing in the world. On a clear day you will be able to see Tory from the Donegal skies.
You can read more about Tory Island, The Wild Atlantic Way, travels to Bali, Bosnia and beyond at www.watchingthedaisies.com
Brigid P. Gallagher is a retired natural medicine's therapist, passionate organic gardener, author and blogger living a blessed life in Donegal.
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